ST : Custom House marked as historic site

Oct 9, 2010

Custom House marked as historic site

By Kimberly Spykerman

MORE than half a century ago, anti-smuggling officers, scheming businessmen and even World War II soldiers thronged Custom House in Maxwell Road, the former headquarters of the then Department of Customs and Excise, now Singapore Customs.

Today, Maxwell Chambers, as it is now known, is a centre for international dispute resolution, and hosts lawyers in smartly pressed suits.

The building's rich history was lauded yesterday when it became the 88th site to be marked as a historic site by the National Heritage Board.

Singapore Customs director-general Fong Yong Kian said yesterday that with the heritage marker, the colonial building would continue to be a 'visible symbol' of Customs history.

Custom House, which was built between 1930 and 1933, joins a list that includes other historic sites such as the Syonan Jinja, a Japanese shrine within MacRitchie Reservoir dedicated to Japanese soldiers who died here during World War II, and Victoria Concert Hall.

The Department of Customs and Excise moved out of the building in 1989. But back in the day, it housed administrative offices that handled permits for import and export, revenue collection and special investigations, among other things.

It was also the base for field officers who would venture deep into the jungle to track those illicitly distilling samsoo (a homemade Chinese liquor), as well as those who patrolled the high seas for cigarette smugglers.

It was a building that never slept, recalled former director-general K.P. Sandrasegara, 77, at a ceremony yesterday to unveil the building's heritage marker. 'We worked round the clock... it was not a nine-to-five office,' he said, chuckling.

During World War II, Custom House was used as a shelter for expatriate Customs officers and their families who had fled Malaya, as well as rescued Australian soldiers who had been attacked by Japanese troops.

The building has seen its fair share of drama. Mr Sandrasegara recalled that in 1959, a man being investigated for smuggling caused a commotion when he suddenly jumped out of the third-floor window. He died from his injuries.

The building also saw its fair share of scheming businessmen who would try to evade taxes on liquor and cigarettes by applying for a permit to export these items, only to sell them locally.

But Mr Sandrasegara also spoke fondly of his memories of daily life at Custom House: How the officers would get a meal at the coffee shop nearby for five cents, and how many of them got their driving licences while working at Custom House as the Traffic Police headquarters was just next door.

'I've spent 32 years of my life here... this is my second home,' he added.

The female officers also had their fair share of stories to tell, though they were far fewer in number back then. Officer Ong Wee Wee, 54, recalled how the women had a 'restroom area' that was linked to the toilet, and often the women officers would gather there to talk or take a break.

It was a common sight, she said, to walk in and find women peeling bean sprouts there after buying groceries from the nearby Maxwell market and Tanjong Pagar wet market.

'It would save them time. After all, they still had to cook dinner for their families after work, didn't they?' said Madam Ong with a laugh.

Singapore Customs has since moved its headquarters to Revenue House.